Domaine barmès buecher
Alsace is a hive of young talents, having witnessed first-hand Sophie and Maxime Barmès blossom in their roles at the family’s Domaine has been an absolute privilege. Under the guidance of their mum Genevieve, they form an incredible and determined trio. Maxime is leading the work both in the vineyards and the cellars. Sophie is looking after all the commercial side, while Genevieve binds all projects and welcome guests at the winery.
The adventure started in 1985 when Genevieve Barmes and Francois Buecher married in Wettolsheim combining their family holdings together. Their goal was to convert to organic viticulture. Their quest towards quality followed in 1998 with a move towards Biodynamic farming. The Domaine was certified in 2001.
The vineyards consist of 7 different terroirs including a whopping 3 Grands Crus:
Lieux-dits Rosenberg, Leimental, Clos Sand and Herrenberg complements Grand Cru Hengst, Pfersigberg and Steingrubler. The attention to details starts right in the vineyards, making sure the work is as manual and light as possible with minimal mechanisation, Hengst being work by horses only. Every bottle proudly wears their birthplace on their label, terroir must transpire in every drop. Soils are varied from Granit in Clos Sand to Limestone in Hengst.
Also, worth mentioning they produce excellent Pinot Noirs. Francois’s grandmother has been at the service of the Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay. Every New Year she received as a gift a case of wine. Francois grew up with the tase of Burgundy and planted Pinot Noir on the Hengst vineyard and from early on he was recognised from the quality of its red.
Harvest is done by hand, followed by a long and soft pressing between 9 to 15 hours. Juice will be flown to their vessels by gravity. The vinification is slow, on the lees between 5 to 18 months, sometimes up to 24 months. All work either in the vineyards or cellars follows the lunar calendar. No intrant in the wines, only a small amount of sulphur prior to bottling.
The Wines
Ample Mirabelle plum, grapefruit and pomelo aromas. Stacks of flint and chalk dust character on the finely nuanced, elegant, barely medium-bodied palate. Excellent acidity for this often rather soft grape. Long finish with fine tannins and pronounced saltiness. Not quite bone dry, but with wonderful freshness. From biodynamically grown grapes. Matured for 11 months in large oak casks. Drink or hold.
James Suckling - 95 Points
The Steingrubler Grand Cru vineyard in Wettolsheim has a complex terroir consisting of clay-marl limestone soils on granitic sands. South and east facing vines flourish here due to the mineral and climatic complexity of the environment. The finest Riesling in Alsace are to be found on granite soil for prolonged longevity and mineral purity. Combine this with a cooler vintage you have a chiselled wine full of rocky energy. It does take more time in the bottle to open up than its sibling Grand Cru Hengst. 2021 is hitting the perfect note right now.
Barmes Buecher are experts at making delightfully fresh Gewurztraminer like no one else in the world, with finesse and lightness. Two adjectives that are not synonym with this grape variety in any manual. This Gewurz comes from a mosaic of terroirs from across the Domaine, creating intricate complexities within the wine. A classical gewurztraminer boasting wonderful floral tones with the classic honeysuckle notes that develop on the palate.
In our opinion, one of the 2023 vintage biggest success at Barmes-Buecher. This Pinot Blanc (75%) also contains 25% of a cousin grape variety called Pinot Auxerrois bringing an array of floral notes in this stunning wine. A very tentalizing whites, if you have been weary about Alsace wines, we hope this fine example will find its place in your cellar and heart for years to come.
The stunning nose of flint, melon and ripest citrus pulls you into the extremely pure and pristine medium-bodied palate, which has terrific chalky energy. Dazzling flinty freshness in the extremely long finish. Matured on the lees for a year. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
James Suckling - 96 Points
When your top Grand Cru is the great Hengst, you are clearly an estate that is used to handling epic fruit. This Pinot Blanc (75% Pinot Blanc and 25% Pinot Auxerrois) is extraordinarily grand. It is layered, expressive and superbly evocative. While the finish is, thankfully, crystalline, dry and pure, there is a glorious florality that adds gentle detail without ever crossing the line into being creamy or cloying. Claire’s sommelier past is evident in this wine, given it is a thrilling, gastronomic choice for elite cuisine. 18/20 - Matthew Jukes
The Steingrubler Grand Cru vineyard in Wettolsheim has a complex terroir consisting of clay-marl limestone soils on granitic sands. South and east facing vines flourish here due to the mineral and climatic complexity of the environment. The finest Riesling in Alsace are to be found on granite soil for prolonged longevity and mineral purity. Combine this with a cooler vintage you have a chiselled wine full of rocky energy. It does take more time in the bottle to open up than its sibling Grand Cru Hengst.
Hengst is one of the most esteemed Grand Cru vineyards in the Alsace. Its dialect name means stallion. Characterised by its southeast facing, sundrenched slope a terroir boasting marl-limestone soils, it really is a microclimate that creates distinctive qualities in the wines produced. These vineayrds create wines that are powerful and yet so graceful, like a stallion. Riesling gown here can be enjoyed both young and with age, if you can resist their enchanting melody in their youth that is. Striking acidity with intense aromas of blossom, exotic and stone fruit, the limestone minerality provides the backbone for longevity. The Barmes Buecher winery is situated right next to this Cru in Wettolsheim.
How could a dry riesling be more refined, more concentrated or more precise than this giant that is so subtle it’s hard to find adequate words for its perfect beauty? The darkness in the soil and the orange character come together with the freshness of dawn. Unbelievable length and purity! Fermented and mature in well-used small oak cooperage (mostly demi-muids). From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
James Suckling - 100 Points
A thread that can be found across all wines produced at Barmes Buecher is their ability to make refreshing and vibrant wines from grapes that are notoriously heavy/oily in character. Check out the Grand Cru Steingrubler Gewurztraminer for example, a true class act! This is also the case with Pinot Gris Rosenberg. The 2022 took almost 2 years to fully ferment, as the Barmes are keen for each wines to be set free, they waited. The result is impressive. The nose is expressive of ripe stone fruits and freshly cut button mushrooms complemented with their signature zippy freshness on the palate.
This Riesling bottling is made as a fruit driven wines unlike the rest of the range which is terroir focused. The grapes are coming from various terroirs, mainly sandy and loamy plots situated in the plain but also a selection of all the younger vines across the Domaine. Traditionally aged in large oak foudre as well as stainless steel for 10 months on lees. Fronted by lime citrus that softens into more crisp orchard fruit on the palate. There is good weight and texture providing added length and complexity. Thirst quenching Riesling in its most delectable expression.
The Steingrubler Grand Cru vineyard in Wettolsheim has a complex terroir consisting of clay-marl limestone soils on granitic sands. South and east facing vines flourish here due to the mineral and climatic complexity of the environment. The finest Riesling in Alsace are to be found on granite soil for prolonged longevity and mineral purity. Combine this with a cooler vintage you have a chiselled wine full of rocky energy. It does take more time in the bottle to open up than its sibling Grand Cru Hengst.