Domaine Duvert, Saint Veran 2023

£33.47

This is a step up from the Macon-Prissé, with limestone terroir shining through this Saint-Veran 2023.

Definitely a wine to sink into, to luxuriate in – offering a steely mineral backbone wrapped in notes of hay, honey and ripe stone fruit. The purity of this wine is striking so elegant and long-lasting.

Watch out for the single vineyards too.

Based in Prissé, this is a new find and a pretty good one, given how congested Burgundy is these days. As regular readers know, I have grown tired of flabby, loose-knit, immediate-drinking white Burgundy, preferring medium-weight whites with crunch and dynamism.  This fine-tuned Saint-Véran shows decent balance from the off, with just the merest hint of meadow flowers, and this sense of the verdant countryside is well-founded and not trampled on by any oak, because this wine sees none!  Currently organic and heading towards biodynamism, this is an accurate and comforting wine which proves that less is often more in the wine world.  17.5/20 - Matthew Jukes

This is a step up from the Macon-Prissé, with limestone terroir shining through this Saint-Veran 2023.

Definitely a wine to sink into, to luxuriate in – offering a steely mineral backbone wrapped in notes of hay, honey and ripe stone fruit. The purity of this wine is striking so elegant and long-lasting.

Watch out for the single vineyards too.

Based in Prissé, this is a new find and a pretty good one, given how congested Burgundy is these days. As regular readers know, I have grown tired of flabby, loose-knit, immediate-drinking white Burgundy, preferring medium-weight whites with crunch and dynamism.  This fine-tuned Saint-Véran shows decent balance from the off, with just the merest hint of meadow flowers, and this sense of the verdant countryside is well-founded and not trampled on by any oak, because this wine sees none!  Currently organic and heading towards biodynamism, this is an accurate and comforting wine which proves that less is often more in the wine world.  17.5/20 - Matthew Jukes

This eponymous estate was founded by Anne-Sophie and David Duvert in 2023. However, the journey began decades before, in 2003, when they first began planting vines and slowly building their vision. With their own domain in their future dreams, they began by selling grapes to the local co-op, eventually affording to build their own cave, and begin their conversion to organic viticulture – achieving certification in 2018. They are now the proud owners of 23 hectares across the Mâconnais, producing only whites and celebrating the first vinification in their own cellar in 2023!

2025 sees the Duvert estate increase from 20 to 23 hectares, and the couple working across Bourgogne Aligoté, Mâcon-Villages, Saint-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé. The undulating hills of southern Burgundy are home to a mixture of clay and limestone soils, which along with their winemaking techniques, have aided in crafting concentrated and luscious styles of wine. It is also good to note that they have begun experimenting with biodynamic practices also.

In the cellar, they work with steel tanks for fermentation, before moving wines into a mixture of steel, fûts, demi-muids and concrete eggs for ageing. They work with long, gentle pressings in a pneumatic press and allow the wines to go through a natural fermentation, as well as malolactic fermentation. Ageing is done on the fine lees.

Grape variety: 100% Chardonnay Average Age of Vines: 25-45 Years Terroir: Clay & Limestone Soils Vineyard Surface Area: 3.35ha Vinification: Slow and gentle pressing at low pressures to preserve aromas, Fermentation with native yeasts with minimal interventions in Stainless Steel tank- full malolactic conversion. Ageing: 8 Months on lees in Stainless Steel tanks Organic: Certified Organic

 

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