Michel Gahier
The Wines
The only expression of Savagnin you will find in Michel’s cellar is the fully committed Vin Jaune style. His approach is unparalleled and unequalled—decidedly old school—spicy, somewhat exotic (Savagnin is indeed a parent of Gewürztraminer), and smoky all at once. Slightly exotic and beautifully poised. Last bottle available.
Such a mesmerizing, captivating, philosophical, old-school galore type of wine. Made from the rare Melon a queue rouge grape, a cousin of Chardonnay, Michel always vinifies it under flor for three years. This is Michel’s top wine and most sought-after expression—deliciously salty throughout, with abundant personality to boot.
Michel is the Trousseau king of Montigny. Le Clousot is his most immediate, table-ready, bistro-style red. High-toned red fruit and bright acidity are complemented by fresh mountain herbs. Approachable and deliciously gourmand.
This is a new wine for us at Vins-Clairs, made from a plot that Michel rents from a local winegrower daughter that died recently. Crafted from the rare, dark-skinned Trousseau Noir grape—a late-ripening variant—the vines average 80 years old and are vinified in the same low-intervention fashion as the rest of the estate’s wines. The result is a dark, concentrated, and spicy expression.
The Gahier family have been settled in the village of Montigny les Arsures, since 1525 and the Domaine dates to 1874.
Michel is a discrete individual, preferring his vineyards and his cellars than trotting the world to sell his wines. At 58 years old he is armed with a wealth of knowledge that is hard to encounter in the Jura. With over 30 years of experience of natural winemaking and organic farming under his belt, he talks very openly about the struggles the regions faced in the eighties and nineties. When only a very few people encouraged him in his path, and the austerity encountered towards Jura wines. His speech is a natural conviction against industrialisation.
Michel is the first generation to solely focus on viticulture and bottling wines, taking over in 1990. Now cultivating around 8ha planted with Chardonnay, Melon a queue Rouge, Trousseau and a little Savagnin from which he makes only a limited quantity of vin Jaune.
The cellar is filled with large old foudres and looks as if time stood still. All his wines are plot specific.
You may be a Jura aficionado and have never encountered Michel’s wine, this is quite possible. For sure they will leave a lasting impact on you once you do.
The only expression of Savagnin you will find in Michel’s cellar is the fully committed Vin Jaune style. His approach is unparalleled and unequalled—decidedly old school—spicy, somewhat exotic (Savagnin is indeed a parent of Gewürztraminer), and smoky all at once. Yet it remains light on its feet and beautifully poised. We fell hard for it.
Les Follasses is Michel’s most immediate Chardonnay, easily approachable in its youth. It also ages exceptionally well—the 1992 version we tasted recently at the estate showed very little sign of age. A vibrant, ultra-fresh, saline wine made in the Ouillé style, yet with subtle nutty notes at its core that draw you in. High in demand. Hurry.
Les Grands Vergers comes from Michel’s oldest vines. A firm favorite of ours, both for its complexity and for the remarkable heights Michel achieves with this grape. Deep, savory, and utterly captivating. Keep it if you can, but it’s delicious right now.
Les Crêts is Michel’s most complex Chardonnay expression. Situated at a higher altitude (330 m) on red marls, it gains remarkable freshness and a fleshy backbone—more powerful than “Les Follasses.” Aging is done in an expressive Ouillé style, displaying refined, subtle nutty and saline notes. This is Jura white at its finest. If you can get your hands on a bottle, hold onto it for a few years.
Michel Gahier is a quiet individual, but his wines speak volumes. Like this Trousseau expression, La Vigne du Louis is discreet at first, with subtle fruit, floral notes, and intense peppery nuances. Michel recommends enjoying this wine after three to four years of ageing. We trust the master.