Clos de la Barthassade
La Barthassade tells the story from Helene and Guillaume Baron.
They met in Burgundy studying wine in Dijon. They both learnt the ropes from local legends, including Sylvain Pataille in Marsannay for Hélène, and Dominique Derain in St Aubain and Clos de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay for Guillaume.
After a few years, they wanted to have vines of their own and the terroirs in the Terrasses du Larzac became an obvious choice. While they were looking for an opportunity to buy land here, they moved south and worked at Trévallon in Provence, learning how to handle more powerful grape varieties.
They found their first plot of old vines, called La Barthassade, in Montpeyroux in 2013. Today the couple farm 13.5 Ha - certified organic and using biodynamics - working their old vines with a horse. Clos la Barthassade is now spread over the terroirs of Montpeyroux, Jonquières and Saint-Saturnin with grape varieties including Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Carignan, Carignan Blanc, Roussanne, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Vermentino, and even some Aligoté.
In the winery, the philosophy of slow pace and attention to detail continues, with very few interventions/additions made, or none at all. They use gravity, indigenous yeasts, soft extraction, concrete vats to reinforce the limestone character of the wines, and foudres for longer and gentler ageing of the reds. Their wines are bursting with energy, refined structure, and elegance - they are full of freshness, with a finesse that connects to the couple's first love of Burgundy and Pinot Noir.
The Wines
Juicy white peaches and pear, with lively acidity and a clean, mineral finish. A gem coming from the sunny Languedoc.
Bright, fresh Cinsault with redcurrant and pomegranate notes, crisp texture, and a lively finish – perfect chilled.
This is another wine that is informed by the use of whole bunches (50%) and their spicy stems in the fermentation. Made from 70% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre, the ‘Rhône recipe’ is alive and kicking (like a mule) in this fabulously expressive, wild wine. With hints of bark and leather, and an old-style, forest-like feel about it, texturally this is more like a Pinot than a Syrah, and I love its earth-soaked stance. Drinking now, and with the ability to hold well, this is another fabulous discovery. 17.5/20 - Matthew Jukes
17/20
‘Lifting this glass to your nose is like catching a whiff of fragrant cigar smoke on an early summer evening, threading between the heady purple scent of lilacs and wisteria. The fruit is black and sweet and tinged with ink-dust sootiness, cupped within the curved brace of grainy, herbal tannins. It's a chiaroscuro of black and purple uplit by splashes of bright, cypress and chocolate-mint green. Why have I never tasted a Clos de la Barthassade wine before?! This is fantastic.’ Drink 2024-2033 (Tamlyn Currin of Jancisrobinson.com)